rudog#1

This section is for all posts concerning frame design and construction.
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

rudog#1

Post by rudog »

I'm a little pleased with this past week. I thought Ild share so I can ask a few questions.
fab1.JPG
fab1.JPG (34.84 KiB) Viewed 6762 times
As it sits I've 8* for the backbone, 45* in the neck, and the goose-neck is 30* off horizontal. Compared to the 1948 & CR140-2 frames, it's roughly 6" down and 0 out. I'll prolly bend the back-bone mid-way of the rear head. It depends on how the tank will sit.

The question I have regards the gooseneck and bracing. When I fit the tube to the neck, I'm gonna have to cut the tubes down the length of the gooseneck. I wasn't planning on using a gusset, but got to thinking that I could increase the strength of the goosneck by making a gusset to the bottom of the tube rather than the top. Essentially welding the tube to the gusset rather than each other. Any thoughts?
hansgoudzwaard
Contributor
Posts: 804
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:43 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: I was on the last board as bonustoolkit. I have changed that to my given name.
I started a project build there " File and Fit." I paln to continue that when I go back home in Dec. 2011. I first joined the board when Gary W had it in the year 2005. That was the time I really gained an interest in building chops. I have a long way to go, compared to some here.

Re: rudog#1

Post by hansgoudzwaard »

Nice start , Rudy. You have a substantial rake, and added strenght would be an asset. Clean and simple always looks good. A tube from the backbone to the downtubes just behind the neck.
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

Re: rudog#1

Post by rudog »

Thanx Hans. The tube from the backbone to the curve of the gooseneck will be added. With the angle that the tube will be welded to the neck, it should be plenty strong.

This is what it's planned to look like.
frametmp Model (1.jpg
frametmp Model (1.jpg (25.12 KiB) Viewed 6723 times
krymis
Conventioneer
Posts: 277
Joined: Sun Nov 06, 2011 12:46 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey dan it chris (krymis) from the CBH board. thanks for opening this back up. hope to have a project to show the build here. BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH and so on and so forth. The book of revolations and worlds ends and shit like that.....

Re: rudog#1

Post by krymis »

looks good bud. not sure i understand your question so i will wait to see what is going on.
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

Re: rudog#1

Post by rudog »

This is a situation I've never considered or seen any info on. I built the neck 1 5/8" between the bearings. When I cope the tube to fit the neck I'm going to be taking 7/16" off of the dia. That will extend all the way to the curve of the gooseneck. While 2 half-tubes should be stronger than a single down tube, it still worries me.

If I fit a gusset to the neck 1st, I could then fit the tube to that gusset. This would essentially put the gusset inside the tube and recover the strength lost by the heavy coping of the down tubes.
fab2.JPG
fab2.JPG (21.68 KiB) Viewed 6720 times
An alternative would be to bend the gooseneck inward to increase the angle that the tube attaches to the neck. That would decrease the cope and make the downtubes more parallel when viewed from the front.

A 2nd alternative would be to make a neck with 2 3/8" dia.
User avatar
gww25
Site Grandaddy
Posts: 219
Joined: Thu Nov 24, 2011 2:45 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: I'm just an old chopper builders who still dabbles in the craft and I hope that I can contribute something to the discussions as time goes by. Most of you already know that I started the Chopper Builders Handbook site so you're probably already familiar with my philosophy on choppers and chopper work.
Location: Murphy, Texas
Contact:

Re: rudog#1

Post by gww25 »

If you cope the tubes to meet the neck at the outside you will have a much nicer looking neck junction. Don't worry about cutting away a huge portion of the two tubes to get them to meet. Once welded this will basically be a monolithic structure and a much cleaner junction than welding in some kind of big plate. You will still need some kind of small gussett to join the lower tubes to the backbone just behind the neck and this will just provide more weld area along the sides of the neck to tie it all together.
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

Re: rudog#1

Post by rudog »

Thanx, Gary. That was the info I needed.
User avatar
yona
Conventioneer
Posts: 278
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 4:55 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Automotive weldor and fabricator for 45 years, like to dip in to both pools............make hand-tooled leather covered seats and bags.................jack of all trades........................63 years old......live in Baja Georgia, on the coast...former military
Location: Baja Georgia - St Johns River Inlet
Contact:

Re: rudog#1

Post by yona »

All so , I think you would have more weld area by copeing the two down tubes.....measure the total lenght of the weld, where the gusset attaches to the neck and then add up the total length of weld around the two tubes ( use the little copeing widget the make the templates and lay them out flat...measure the length of the curve ) then add the samll gusset that Gary mentioned and the total weld length of that ......and I think it would be greater that just the tubes welded to a larger gusset ! Hope this makes some sense..lol
I.D.G.A.F.H.T.D.I.A.O.C.C.
Jeff L
Contributor
Posts: 687
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: rudog#1

Post by Jeff L »

On my goose neck, the down tubes touch at the neck.I coped them as one tube.the gusset I used connects the backbone, neck & down tubes.They're not real big, so its not an eye sore.Actually I used 2 gussets.Each gusset sits centeted on the down tubes......That is a cool frame.I like how low it is.You building a digger?
Changing the shape of the Earth...1 bucket at a time...IUOE local 825 top of the food chain
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

Re: rudog#1

Post by rudog »

Thanx, YONA. I don't exactly understand completely. It does make sense to tie the tubes together and then gusset. I'll use 1 on top of the seam, prolly 3/8" plate.

Yeh, Jeff! The first draft looked like a digger before I knew what a digger was. Long and low was my goal. I've used dims from Gary's plans and by droping the neck, it's actually 0" out. I just bent the backbone and added the gooseneck. It's the 45* rake that gives it that long look. Just wait until I mock-up the front end. I'm looking for a wheelbase of 75" +/-.
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

Re: rudog#1

Post by rudog »

That wasn't so bad. Tedious and time consuming, but it came out better than I thought.
fab19.JPG
fab19.JPG (18.29 KiB) Viewed 6672 times
fab16.JPG
fab16.JPG (19.27 KiB) Viewed 6672 times
User avatar
Maxthegardener
Builder
Posts: 384
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 11:28 am
SELF INTRODUCTION: Name is Max living in scotland ,and building my first bike, Which is derived from a buellM2 Cyclone..Started with an engine and a Drop seat frame wich was made to my spec by a more experienced builder. would like to learn more about the skills and techniques required to build a frame so I value being a member here...Cheers Max
Location: Angus, Scotland

Re: rudog#1

Post by Maxthegardener »

Really like your Plans there Rudy, goose neck is nice....
User avatar
rudog
Conventioneer
Posts: 257
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 2:03 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Jack of all. Master of none. Worked in a machine shop since I was 8. Desgined embedded computers for a few years. Done lots in between. If there's anything I've learned with certainty, "Anyone who looks like they know what they're doing is putting on an act."
Location: Texoma

Re: rudog#1

Post by rudog »

Thanx, Max. I tend to stick my neck out.
hansgoudzwaard
Contributor
Posts: 804
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2011 10:43 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: I was on the last board as bonustoolkit. I have changed that to my given name.
I started a project build there " File and Fit." I paln to continue that when I go back home in Dec. 2011. I first joined the board when Gary W had it in the year 2005. That was the time I really gained an interest in building chops. I have a long way to go, compared to some here.

Re: rudog#1

Post by hansgoudzwaard »

Great Job. Nice.
User avatar
jimmib
Lurker
Posts: 91
Joined: Tue Oct 25, 2011 1:35 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hello everyone. first of all a big thanks to "Dan the Man". Some of you know me from the previous (2) boards and some don't, so here goes. I have been a fabricator/welder for over 40 years now. Damn that's a helluva long time to do anything! Anyways, I have built literaly 100's of street rods, pro streeters, racecars, bikes and trikes over the years. Never made the headlines and never will. I do what I do because it is the love of my life.
I enjoy reading the posts on the forum and try to contribute when I can. I am sure that this will be every bit as good as the CBH forum, as we will have most of the same folks. Good luck and post a lot of pics!! Jim
Location: Lowcountry USA

Re: rudog#1

Post by jimmib »

Amazing what can be done with a little time and patience (and of course some know how and skill).
Looks good man.
Whoa!...Musta stood up too fast...
Ever stop to think and forget to start again?
An optomist is no more than a pessimist with an idea.
Gun control is hitting what you are aiming at.....
Post Reply

Return to “Frame Fabrication”