The Chopper Compendium

OK, so all I gots in metal forming tools are drill bits and hack saws which I could use to make this part I think if needed.

Can anybody help out and create a part for me out of 2" x 2" x 1/4" sq tube, that is a little over 4" long?

Reference attached pdf's. The part is shown in coupler.pdf

Just so you know, I can very easily think outside the box and model something in 3D that cannot be built! While I don't have any formal training in strength of materials or designing, I know enough about the CAD software to be dangerous!

Can this part be made?

How much would it cost to have this part machined out of some 2" sq tubing? I'll gladly pay for any material/s, labor and shipping.

This is for a single wheel trailer I'm working on this winter. I have a few purchased parts now and am ready to begin work on the frame. Once I get moving on this project (and take some pics) I'll post a thread showing the progress and all.

TIA if anybody can help out

Steve

I would suggest you save the money & make that part yourself.If you have a Supply house near you, the tube can be had for next to nothing.I really couldnt see that taking more than a couple hours with simple hand tools.The best part about that is the pride of homemade goodness.Wait a minute...two best parts...money saved can be put towards more tools.

I recommend you not use a pin for each end of the coupler.
I built a steering column using 2 sections of square stock and a u-joint in the middle pinned at each end, and the steering took considerable more effort in some locations of the rotation than in others.
I switched u-joints and used a slip fitting on one end to fix this.

You cannot do that for a trailer tongue, so I suggest one end of the coupler be converted to some type of swivel connection.

Sorry for the formal tone, I'm used to having everything I write be professional in case there is an audit or lawsuit...
Here's some smilies to make up for it...

Make it yourself dude, should take about an hour with ordinary hand tools......if I was nearer I would offer to make it for you.....

Maz xx

tks for the replies so far

Yeah Jeff, I already picked up a piece of sq tube, but I goofed and only ordered just enough for one. If I do this by hand, I'll go pick up some more cuz I know I'll screw something up!

rr bob, when you suggest a swivel connection, do you have anything in mind? Obviously a normal ball hitch won't work on a single wheel trailer.

I did not show or describe the internal hinge points...

You can see the 2" long x 1/2" diameter shoulder bolt heads sticking out. On the inside however I have needle-roller bearings pressed into the smaller, 1 1/4" x 3/16" sq tubes. In between the smaller and larger sq tubes, I have 1/8" thrust washers (yeah yeah, I know it may not be a perfect 1/8" gap in there...will deal with that when making it), the stronger type, not just the plain bronze oilite thrust bearings (I forget what McMaster Carr called them)

With that type of setup, do you think there will be any binding?

Tks Maz, I seen your reply too...looks like I'll be getting my hands dirty (and I'm sure a bit o cussing will help!)

Let's see, a pro says it will take 1 hour...weekend warrior here so I'll take about 3 to 5 hours!

Happy New Year all!

Steve

I think I gave you bad advice. I just realized you're planning a single wheeled trailer.
A swivel connection would just allow the trailer to tip over.

Bad, bad, bad advice.
Here is an interesting link to a thread about towing trailers with 2 wheelers.
http://www.burgmanusa.com/forums/viewto ... =6&t=36119
It has several links that might go to more info.

I also saw a couple of different hitches that are similar to what you propse, so apparently it works well.

I was trying to find the post from the previous site about the trailer and the coupling................

yeah Bob, I wasn't too sure either about this concept. But there's alot of info online indicating single wheel trailers have been around since 1950 (give or take, http://www.singlewheel.com/) and it was actually the post max is referring to that inspired me.

The attached pdf is a drawing of that type of connection, I believe it's either from the other post max mentioned or it's from another website where the original author of that post (user name Thomas on the old CHB website IRC) had posted info regarding his trailer.

We're sort of concerned however of the oillite bushings in that design. Yes, those type of bushings are made to wear but our concern was would they wear down so quickly to cause the trailer to wobble.

The intent of this trailer, while for hauling extra stuff around is the obvious, the goal for this trailer will be that it needs to handle a planned 4,500 to 5,000 mile trip next summer out to the west coast and back. Sure, I plan on bringing tools, spare tubes and/or tires for the trailer, etc, but it would be nice to hope it makes it all the way without any troubles.

We originally found a u-joint at Fleet Farm that could work, however my concerns are those are rated for RPM's or for a "rotating" type of use and not rated for a "pulling" type of use.

Next week, I'll start a build log on this - I'm really looking forward to hearing some feedback/advice from everybody here on it.

ugh, back to tackling a virus on me mom's pc...friggen M$ operating systems!

Here are a couple pix of u-joint style couplers... The top hitch seems a home made copy of the lower one.

I understand the concern about the towing forces being detrimental to a u-joint configuration hitch, but if a common u-joint is used, it could be easily checked, and easily replaced if needed. I don't think it is a strong concern, because the trailer will have minimal friction on one tire. The use will be minimal compared to a u-joint in normal service in a driveline, and the wear should be minimal because the strongest force will be during fast start-up and hard stopping. During normal sustained travel, the towing force will be very minimal, unless carrying an extreme load.

Your design will function like a u-joint, but will it be easily repaired if it wears faster than expected? That would be my only concern if it were mine, and I don't think it's a strong concern, IMHO...

The thing about those is they allow flex from side to side and up and down, but will let the trailer tip only so much.......I had one the was worn and I used strips of old innertube and wrapped it tight and used easy-ties to bind it, to take out the slop.....same as using elect. tape to wrap an old flex-socket, when using a long extention, to get it on the bolt head.....

yona wrote:.same as using elect. tape to wrap an old flex-socket, when using a long extention, to get it on the bolt head.....

God damn it.....I never thought of that.....simple but ingenious

Because the bearing isn't making full revolutions there will be excellerated wear to the joint compared to what it would when the joint is used in it's usual application. but since it really isn't going to be moving much at all...just a few degrees in each plane....I'd think the trailer would wear out before the coupler would

The trailer will only have one wheel.....

Should be able to lean with the bike if any tipping is needed.

and if you get one off a 4x4 or a tractor they'll have grease nipples for lubrication..

I would think that the forces involved with towing a light weight trailer would be different but minimal as apposed to its designed use