Rust removal through Electolysis

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Jeff L
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Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:38 pm

I've been searching methods of Rust removal in my Gas Tank & didn't really want to use harsh Chemicals that are hard to get rid of.I found this on the Web.....so here's the steps...1)We need the rusty Tank
rust.JPG
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rust1.JPG
rust1.JPG (106.21 KiB) Viewed 749 times
2)some Arm & Hammer Super Washing Soda
rust2.JPG
rust2.JPG (102.02 KiB) Viewed 749 times
3)a Battery Charger
rust3.JPG
rust3.JPG (105.69 KiB) Viewed 749 times
Changing the shape of the Earth...1 bucket at a time...IUOE local 825 top of the food chain

Jeff L
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Posts: 568
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:52 pm

4)We need an Anode that goes in the Tank.This has to be Steel,but not Stainless.
rust4.JPG
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5) Now mix a couple Table spoons of the Super Wash per Gal. of Water.Make sure to mix enough to fill the Tank. 6)Hook the Neg. Lead of Charger to the Tank & Pos. to the Anode,which goes into the Tank.Note the heavy Cardboard so there is no contact between the Anode & Tank(it will short out).
rust5.JPG
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7) turn on the Chager & let the Magic work.
Last edited by Jeff L on Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:58 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Changing the shape of the Earth...1 bucket at a time...IUOE local 825 top of the food chain

Jeff L
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Posts: 568
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Sun Feb 16, 2014 4:56 pm

This is goning to take some time.I checked the Process after about 2 Hrs. run time & this is how the Anode looked
rust7.JPG
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.This is the inside of the Tank after the 1st run
rust8.JPG
rust8.JPG (112.74 KiB) Viewed 748 times
.May be hard to tell,but there is a marked improvment.Trhow out the Solution & make up new every run.I'll do this for a couple Days & see how it works.
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Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by hansgoudzwaard » Sun Feb 16, 2014 10:06 pm

RUSTBUSTING at jalopyjournal, a good read.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/show ... t=molasses

It seems to be a matter of choice. Both work well.

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/journal ... alid=22311

Jeff L
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SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Mon Feb 17, 2014 11:02 am

Thanks for posting those.The Road I'm going seems to be working, but in the 2nd Thread it says this way works well if the Anode has a direct line with the Rust.My Tank has a Partition with just a few Holes to let Fuel to the other half.I'm mot sure that Side will get clean, so I may have to cut my loses & go another Route.I'm thinking just cutting it in half,blasting, & welding back together.
Changing the shape of the Earth...1 bucket at a time...IUOE local 825 top of the food chain

Jeff L
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Mon Feb 17, 2014 5:00 pm

After talking to some more People, they say that the Anode having to be in site of the Rust is a little unfounded.The reason being this an effect of Electricity & the Charge is being sent through where ever the Water is.So....I'm going to continue untill the side of the Tank I can see is clean.I still intend to cut the Tank in half to have peace of Mind.This is what the Anode looked like after the second run at 5Hr.So it is pulling a good amount of Rust off the Walls.Unfortunatly I have to go back up North for the Week & won't get to do any more till next Weekend.
rust9.JPG
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sleepyonthree
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Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by sleepyonthree » Mon Feb 17, 2014 9:51 pm

Jeff L wrote:Thanks for posting those.The Road I'm going seems to be working, but in the 2nd Thread it says this way works well if the Anode has a direct line with the Rust.My Tank has a Partition with just a few Holes to let Fuel to the other half.I'm mot sure that Side will get clean, so I may have to cut my loses & go another Route.I'm thinking just cutting it in half,blasting, & welding back together.
I sloshed a tank with one of the phosphoric acid based rust convertors then cut the tank and sandblasted the inside for a good clean. Welded it back up and did a double coat of red kote.
Has been about two year and is still holding up pretty good. Figure the coarse silica sand made for a good tooth for the red kote to grip.

As and aside.
Soda (pop) has phosphoric acid as one of its ingredients. Think coca cola and its ability to eat rust. What people don't think about is it does the same to ones bones if your a chronic imbiber.
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Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by gearhead1951 » Tue Feb 18, 2014 6:34 am

If yer gonna cut it open anyway then whats the purpose of going thru all that rigamarole ?!!

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sleepyonthree
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Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by sleepyonthree » Tue Feb 18, 2014 9:51 am

gearhead1951 wrote:If yer gonna cut it open anyway then whats the purpose of going thru all that rigamarole ?!!
For me the phosphoric slosh cut down the blast time so I was less exposed to the silica dust even wearing a face filter.
nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool

Jeff L
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Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Tue Feb 18, 2014 11:32 am

gearhead1951 wrote:If yer gonna cut it open anyway then whats the purpose of going thru all that rigamarole ?!!
Cause I like Science.I know the Acid Baths work, but will also eat the good Metal.I'm not sure ,but I don't this way does.As said before,I wanted a method that was easy to dispose of,& if it works, it's a lot easier than cutting a Tank apart.My cutting is all part of the Experiment,& the Tank has a partition in it making seeing the entire inside impossible.There seems to be alot of Gunk in the Tank as well, so I may just cut it short & start cutting.
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Maxthegardener
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Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Maxthegardener » Tue Feb 18, 2014 4:34 pm

Did have success using water treatment chemicals, just mixed to a higher concentration, not sure about the safty of the liquid and haven't skipped it got it stored for future use. but it cleaned right through the mill scale on a test. and takes anodising right of, if of course you wanted to do that..lol..from memory it was the one that reduces acidity in a pool?

Jeff L
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Posts: 568
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Tue Feb 18, 2014 5:04 pm

Well.....I got delayed going North so I was able to do a couple more runs.There is a lot of Shit that won't come off.I think it's old...very old 2 Stoke mix.I cut the Tank in half.The process was working, & I think it would have cleaned up pretty well.Even the other side of the Partition was cleaning up.You can see the dark areas in the Pic.
rust10.JPG
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hansgoudzwaard
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SELF INTRODUCTION: I was on the last board as bonustoolkit. I have changed that to my given name.
I started a project build there " File and Fit." I paln to continue that when I go back home in Dec. 2011. I first joined the board when Gary W had it in the year 2005. That was the time I really gained an interest in building chops. I have a long way to go, compared to some here.

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by hansgoudzwaard » Tue Feb 18, 2014 5:35 pm

Now is a good time to do a style change.....fat tank/skinny tank;looks good and reuseable.

Jeff L
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Posts: 568
Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2011 5:09 pm
SELF INTRODUCTION: Hey...I live in South Jersey (the Super Fund State) work as an Operating Engineer local825.Besides bikes I love to fish the surf.I have my current & seemingly endless project a BSA 750 Rocket3, a 72 Honda CB750,79 Kawasaki KZ1000, 48 Simplex, & a 62 Norton Atlas engine
Location: South Jersey

Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by Jeff L » Tue Feb 18, 2014 5:39 pm

This Bike is goin back together Stock.
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Re: Rust removal through Electolysis

Post by railroad bob » Thu Feb 20, 2014 2:47 am

A comment about the blasting...

I took a class in June for paint inspection. Part of what I learned was how to check the condition of the surface after blasting.
The blasting roughens the surface, and it is measured in thousandths, or mils. The surface roughness is called "anchor profile".
The ideal profile is rough, BUT not too rough.It needs to have enough profile for adhesion, but if the profile is too rough,
the peaks of the surface will not have a very thick coating. The thin coating on the peaks will cause premature failure,
because it will be exposed much sooner than a surface with the ideal coating thickness.

One of the tools used to compare surfaces was a set of round discs that had different surface profiles.
Running a fingernail over them, you could feel the differences. I don't have any of the inspection tools here at home,
or I could post some pics.
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