Fractured Lacerations - Build - I Broke my Knife!

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Thanks guys.

Was going to paint it not 100% sure what color but this frame would be such a pain to sand everything it will be primered before it gets riden at least

I was able to get some saw blades for my vertical bandsaw so will not be stopped on this but, I am being slowed on the front brake floating caliper mount trying to think it thru all the way.

I got to get the whole front assembly made before i can make the trees to know my outer width distance of the trees but, I have bought all the steel for them.

[2Loose]

I think you'll be good with the 150# springs. Don't heat 'em though to try to soften 'em up, all that does is remove the springiness and collapse the spring. I've done that. If it's too stiff really the only answer is to change out to lower rate springs. I had to do that on an old gasser race car I worked on, finally had to special order the springs I needed to get the correct rate, after taking heat to the springs I had and ruining them !!

On my '62 FL, when I set it up (many moons ago....) with the 16" over glide at 45 deg, (tubes from Forking by Frank came with spacers to preload the stock springs), the sliders were way, way too stiff, so I pulled the spacers and tried trimming them to reduce the preload on the springs, but that didn't change the stiffness, just lowered the front ride level a bit. So pulled the spacers and put in a second set of stock springs. That reduced the spring rate to exactly half the stock rate for one spring. But there was still too much preload, so I carefully cut off one coil at a time on one of the springs in each side, until I got the ride height just right. And the rate I had with the two springs in there was perfect, other guys riding with me often remarked on how well that extended glide front end worked on bumpy roads. I just rebuilt those front legs this year after 40 years, new tubes from Franks, new bushings in the legs, kept the same spring setup. Posted some info on that spring setup here (Link) if you are interested.

On the other hand, I have had some success in the past in reducing a spring's rate by reducing the cross section of the metal in the spring. I carefully took off metal on the outside of the spring using a belt sander, kept rotating it to take metal off evenly all the way around, and keeping it cool, not letting it get hot, and was able to reduce the rate by about 20% to get it where I wanted it. But that took awhile, and it was trial and error, had to keep checking it as I was working it. Check your springs when you get them, I'm assuming that 150# should compress them one inch ?

Keep posting, always fun to watch your builds.
Willy

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Thanks!

I got the bushings and floating spacer done for both brakes. Made the center out of stainless so I do not have to worry about paint.

The mount for brake caliper spacers made.

The front rockers done.

The front axle threaded to length.

Now I know my distance for sure on front wheel and trees with how far the shock spring assembly sticks out and can make the trees.

Before that I am going to connect the caliper spacers and floating spacer for brakes while wheel is away from front end.

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Got the brake mount floating plates done now just to engineer and make the trees.

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Been working on my trees/yokes not done yet but getting closer.

Milled the plates this time to capture the mounting slugs. Will make them on the lathe next and weld them in. Then trim to shape.

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I knurled the shaft so it is a press fit and will be welded on bottom like factory.

I made the mounts they have a 1/2 in drop inside so the threads of bolts will not be right at shear point.

I got the mounting slugs welded in.

Used my mill as a jig.

Now to fly cut the ends down to the same and right height then I can cut to shape.

[railroad bob]

Nice work....

BTW, I LOVE, all the pics, its like a slideshow thru your eyes.

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Nice work....

BTW, I LOVE, all the pics, its like a slideshow thru your eyes.

Thanks!

Monday work begins again.

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I got the trees fly cut to the right width after measuring 15 times.

Then cut them out and shaped them.

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I made a slug to reinforce the shaft out of DOM tube because it is stronger being forced into that shape during the process that made it. .003 oversize and then put shaft in the oven and slug in the fridge. Should make the shaft stronger since now on a different rake angle.

Got the bottom tree welded and the bearing pressed on. It was a pain to get the pin bolts perfect to the thousandth even being pressed in. Did it 3 times welding and grinding loose so the bolts in fixed legs will bolt up perfect. Found a weld pattern that worked.

Anyway welded a spacer to top tree and now to make the forks.

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I spent the day getting the materials needed to start the legs and double triple checking every thing for measurements.

This is all I got done but it will allow a start on the legs.

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It may not seem like much work but tolerances are real tight on this front end and needed to get these parts made while double triple checking every thing I had measured was right.

I made 3 jig spacers to hold the forks off jig at just the right height fly cutting out of cold rolled flat plate.

I got the 4 mounts for legs at trees made and the distance had to be turned perfect on lathe and also the step in for the bolts and lock washer while making sure bolts were not at shear point and also enough distance to be welded to main internal boss at the center plate. My lathe will not hold a 7/8ths end mill so made these after turning in lathe with the mill.

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I made some longer bolts for trees/yokes on the lathe to make sure the shear point is the bolt not the threads of the bolts.

I got a 5 in by 1/2in thick plate to make the jig out off. This will fit in the vise of my mill to use the DRO to make the holes in it.

Got all the materials to make the legs. Decided to buy the centers pre sheared to the width length so, They can be put in mill to be drilled for location with DRO and also have truer center line across the leg length.

Now to make the Fork legs.

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I got the jig plate for forks made.

First drilled 2 pieces of wood to double check my measurements for center location on the trees/yokes.

Then made the jig plate and checked it with the trees/yokes.

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Got the centers drilled now need to cut them to shape.