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Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 11:27 pm
by 2Loose
I was able to hold and drink a can of beer today with my left hand, I call that progress !!
Am working up to twisting throttles with my left hand, and holding the wheel in "Patches" with my left hand when I have to shift, but only in straight sections. Put the suicide knob on couple of days ago....
Aloha....
Willy

"Patches"

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Sun Jul 16, 2017 1:31 pm
by 2Loose
Well, it's been 8 weeks since I broke my arm, and it's getting stronger every day, managed to get back on my projects a bit, a couple of friends are of the opinion that the single 5/16" barb and hose on my crankcase breather mod is a bit restrictive. 3/8" to 7/16", and in high performance situations even 1/2" is needed to provide adequate crankcase ventilation capacity. There is a baffle with 4 ports inside this stock breather, which I blanked off to keep it from breathing on the rubber drive belt, which contains a small bit of oil vapor, and in the past kept my rubber primary drive belts pretty messy. I had blanked off the main breather outlet by brazing a nickle over the main opening, then I had drilled from the side into one of the four interior passages, and installed a 5/16" brass barb, the biggest I could fit given the narrow side width of the breather. Now I've added a second 5/16" barb, doubling my breather capacity.

This is the stock oem breather, meant to dump into a "wet" chain primary case, with an adjustable oiler capability, but I've shut the oiler down, so just the normal oil "mist" is all that comes out with the crankcase ventilation. But it is messy, so I want to divert it....
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My first attempt, with a nickle brazed over the opening, and the side drilled with a barb pressed in to match one of the four internal passages...
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JB Weld used for additional reinforcing, painted and ready to install....
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This should keep the fumes and oil mist away from that rubber primary drive belt !!
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But I got concerned that the 5/16" opening was too restrictive, so pulled it, drilled into the next internal passage, 90 degrees away from the first one I used (4 internal passages total), pressed in a second 5/16" barb, and added JB Weld for reinforcement....
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Some clean up and fresh paint, and ready to install with two hoses...

Just for grins, lookin' at these numbers, hose ID and cross sectional areas:
5/16"= 0.3125" ID, area= 0.077sq. in.
3/8"= 0.375" ID, area= 0.110 sq. in.
1/2"= 0.500" ID, area= 0.196 sq. in.
two 5/16" barbs, area= 0.154 sq. in.
So I should be somewhat better than one 3/8" barb, but not quite up to one 1/2"...

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 2:14 pm
by 2Loose
Installed it, it looks kinda not quite right, maybe a barbed 90 on the top hose??
Hmmmm.....

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Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 5:43 pm
by 2Loose
My local hardware store didn't have a one piece 5/16" barbed 90, I could have put one together with a female threaded 90 and two barb by male thread fittings, but too many fittings, so going to look online for the correct one piece 90....

In the meantime....
Had some time, and my busted arm is working a little better now,
so worked on bleeding the brakes, and couldn't get the plunger for the rear
brake master cylinder (mc) to retract after pushing it forward....

The bore has been cleaned up and new parts put in, but they are fitting very tight,
too tight really, so pulled the mc off and pulled it apart....
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A buddy loaned me a spare mc, took it apart and compared the parts....
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The plunger cup on the left is the used one, the right is the new one
that is hanging up in the forward position....
It's quite a bit larger than the old on on the left....
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The plunger on the right is the new one, the left is the old one....
You can see how the new o-ring is larger, a tighter fit....
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Put the MC back together with the older parts, and it pumps quite well now,
with no visible leaks of fluid back out the rear past the used plunger and o-ring....

The bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder turned out to be plugged,
hand cleaned it with drill bits, got it working just fine...
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Had to tighten a few fittings, but eventually I got all the leaks stopped,
and all the air out, and have a nice, solid feel
on the brake pedal, and can't turn the rear wheel
when holding the brake pedal down !!

Now to get the front brake working....

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 4:01 pm
by 2Loose
Trying to get the front brake working....

Kept the master cylinder topped off with fluid,
and kept pumping until all the air was out....
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And the caliper started gripping the disk solidly....
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But I have one small drip that I can't get to stop....
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Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 5:47 am
by budoka
sorry to hear about the broken arm, but glad to see your progress!

i really like the single fire setup you put together for your mag. if you don't mind, where did you get the stuff for that setup? now that i'm getting some of the use of my hand back (another surgery on my wrist) i'm looking forward to getting the knucklehead running again. was thinking i need to rebuild my mag since starting it was a real bear the last time i did, and while i'm at it, i may just put a setup like yours on there.

keep on keepin' on!
-dan

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:37 pm
by 2Loose
Dan, I got that single fire setup from Morris Mags. It should show up on their web pages...

Looked for some brass or copper banjo bolt washers like these,
but nothing locally available, would have to go mail order
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I've had good success using these in the past,
need to look closely at why they leaked this time...
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I'm using these Russell banjo fittings, never had a problem with them before....
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Got these brass 3/8" washers from Ace Hardware,
fits the 10 mm banjo bolt quite nicely....

Pulled the caliper off the front wheel, and tied it up on the handlebar
next to the master cylinder, so I wouldn't loose all the fluid...
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And it leaked, no matter how tight I got the banjo bolt....

So I took a close look at these washers I used, they barely leaked at all,
and only when I put hard pressure on with the brake lever....
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The washer on the left is good, it was on the outside of the banjo bolt....
However, the one on the right, next to the caliper, was severely deformed,
I suspect that is where the leak was coming from....

Took a close look at the caliper, there is a depression there,
a countersunk area that caused the washer to deform,
and as it would not seat properly, it leaked....
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A better view without the banjo bolt.....
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Several ways to dealing with this that I can think of:

- cut down a banjo bolt washer's OD to fit snugly inside this countersunk area....
- Remove the rim of the countersunk area on the caliper, to make the whole surface flat....
- Machine a spacer to fit in that countersunk space, and seal it in to make a flat surface....
Hmmmmm.....

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 3:17 pm
by Dusty-Dave
Quite often the rubber o-ring washers are slightly too large to fit the spot face for a brass or copper washer. I usually stick a bolt through the washer and grind until it will fit. If ya still gots the brass or copper washer that will do also.
Dusty

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 3:56 pm
by 2Loose
Gonna go in the direction of reducing the OD of a banjo bolt washer to fit in that countersunk area of the caliper. Have some more of those washers on order, should be here in a couple of days...

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 12:23 am
by 2Loose
Got a copper washer from my local Napa that might fill that recess on the caliper.
More later....

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 8:56 am
by budoka
isn't it just amazing all the little stuff that'll cause ya headaches? sure makes a person get good at problem solving eh?

i'll have a look at the Morris website. thanks for the info!

-dan

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 12:59 pm
by 2Loose
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found 'em listed at J&P Cycle
Morris Magneto Black Single Fire Module
$139,99
$125.00 (Gold Club)
Although I have not fired up the bike yet, I did crank the motor through to make sure I had the right wire on the right cylinder, and I did have a nice hot spark at the correct plug, after I swapped them, they were on the wrong plugs at first....
Had the rear plug out so I could tell when the front cylinder was on compression stroke when that plug fired (had a spare plug in the front lead and had it grounded on the cylinder when I kicked it over, and had previously timed the magneto to the correct spot.)
I'm getting closer to being able to fire it up for the first time, my busted left arm is healing up slowly, it's the main problem, I need to be able to function fully before I want to go for that first ride, which will be filmed....
Willy

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 4:48 pm
by 2Loose
Had a difficult time finding a 5/16" barbed brass insert 90 to straighten out that upper hose on the breather....
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Finally found this on Amazon dot com....
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1/4" and 3/8" readily available, but 5/16" is much more difficult to find....

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 10:17 pm
by 2Loose
Solved the front caliper leak....

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Using an unusual left side timing port plug...

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Lots More Pix Here...

Re: 62 Chopped FL Rebuild

Posted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 12:39 am
by budoka
feels good to get those little nit picking problems taken care of, doesn't it? reminds me that i need to go bleed my rear brakes again to get a little firmer pedal.

take care,
-dan